“…next to you, we ALL have a drinking problem!”
(Burn After Reading, dir. The Cohen Brothers, Focus Features, 2008)
Citrus trees are heavy drinkers, but they’re a bit particular: they don’t tolerate sitting in dampness, and they can’t drink too much or too little. They prefer infrequent, deep waters over regular, surface waters. They like a good binge and then dry out thoroughly between sessions. When in doubt, let the soil dry out.
Expect to water the shoot every 7-10 days, or more frequently in hot conditions. Citrus trees will go partially dormant in cold enough temperatures and during significant seasonal fluctuations; reduce the watering schedule accordingly. When dormant and during the winter season, you will water considerably less, maybe once or twice a month (your mileage may vary).
But don’t let it stay completely dry for too long, either, the roots will eventually dehydrate. An indication to water is if the top layer of soil is visibly dry, check by testing soil dampness by hand, or with a bamboo skewer.
If it’s showing signs of wilt or heat stress in hot, direct sun without enough water, give it a good watering and move it to indirect sunlight for a day or more. Leaf-curl or blackening leaves can indicate over-watering and/or lack of sunlight; monitor and correct accordingly.
Citrus roots are especially prone to root rot, so you must cut whatever soil mix to be well-draining. Use a combination of perlite, orchid mix, peat, sand, etc. Mix it thoroughly without letting the soil get too compacted, keep it fluffy when possible. Using overly compacted soil that doesn’t drain well will kill it very quickly.
I wouldn’t worry about using a special filter for the water. Unless your tap water is especially undrinkable, it seems like most people use whatever they drink at home. Mineral buildup from hard water would only be an issue in very extreme conditions. If you collect rainwater, use that! But overall, it seems like there’s no need to complicate what type of water to use.
💦💧🌧️🚿🚰
Not only can they be thirsty girlies, citrus trees are also heavy feeders, and will require occasional fertilizer and a nutrient rich soil. They thrive in very acidic soil or medium, and you must add a soil acidifier component. With my shoots, I already added acidifier, and can provide you with extra (let me know).
If you want, I can provide you with enough extra Espoma for two re-pottings, maybe three. Generally, for every 1 lb (16 oz.) of soil, I mixed in a generous 8 oz. of acidifier, which is actually quite a lot. But, I did this knowing citrus trees need very acidic soil, knowing I can taper off including it over time. I do not have a soil ph tester, but if you have one, this is a great excuse to use it in order to check pH levels and maintain a consistent formula.
If you’re not familiar with this brand of acidifier, the way Espoma works is the sulfur chips are dissolved by organisms in the soil which convert it to sulphuric acid. The gypsum counteracts the development of toxic soluble aluminum that results from acidifying the soil. The Espoma brand is a slow release formula that takes about 6 months to reach potency, so do NOT add any more to the current cup. You may need some the first or second time you re-pot the tree. Other types of acidifiers are available, your mileage may vary.
Espoma Soil Acidifer
You’ll probably need a bit of fertilizer every season, and if you want I can provide you with some extra. The Osmocote plant fertilizer is high in nitrogen, potassium, and phosphate; it’s delivered via little resin balls which slowly release nutrients. It normally takes about 4 months before you need to replenish it, but in growth seasons you may need to add more. When in doubt, hold off and avoid over-fertilizing.
Osmocote plant fertilizer
These measurements are not definitive, this is just what’s worked for me so far. Your mileage may vary and your research may lead you to other conclusions. Again, you’re welcome to share your progress in the comments!